Cheese!

One of the big memories! Corsican cheese is one of the best in the world. You can get really fresh cheese from the shepherd in the mountain, mostly ranging from soft semi-aged feta to hard relatively mild cow cheese. Rule of thumb: the uglier, the better! The secret to corsican cheese is the pasture. The cows, goats and sheep have to look in between rocks for something edible and up there this is mostly wild herbs and not so much grass. You can find the flavor of the pasture right in the cheese with hints of maquis and herbs. Nice thing also is that the cheese comes in handsome sizes, ideal for the backpacker! One cheese bought in St Florent made it back home to NY and we reveled over the mountain aromas while enjoying it :-)

The Beach!

Short interruption in updates due to much needed rest at the seaside. We enjoy very much not having to get up before sunrise, for a change! Corsica's southern coast beaches are most beautiful with white sands and turquoise waters. Also some local attractions can be found here, like Bonifacio, an ancient city perched on the cliffs high above water (view from nearby).

Done!

Today we arrived safely in Vizzavona after taking on our last mountain pass. Last night was a little scary because Jewel didn't feel well and the freezing wind was howling over the mountain. But in the morning things looked better and we were on our way at 8:30. The descent was long and tough, and the whole hike took about 7hrs, much more then quoted by the book. I guess we're a little worn out by now. After 10days of relentless trekking we calculated a total of 6700m climbing ascent. No more hiking for now!

Almost there!

Last night was very windy and we could hardly sleep with the tent flapping about. Also feeling very sore and beat up now. In the morning it was cold and foggy. Thank god this stage is one of the shorter ones with only 4.5 hrs projected. However nothing is easy on the GR20! At the end we had to climb up 400m to reach the shelter. Tonight we are herded inside a corral such that the pigs (pic, check in the background, they're waiting!) won't harass us. Tomorrow the last climb of the trip, up 670m to reach a pass at 2100m. Food fantasies are setting in!

Vendetta!

Fantastic stage of the GR20: crossing the highest pass at 2225m, walking on the ridge overlooking glacial lakes and the endless mountain ranges in the distance. However at night Paul fell victim to Napoleon's revenge, along with a number of other hikers coming in from the same direction. Still not clear if the water from Manganu or heat and exhaustion is to blame. Passing the magic number of 2000m alt still makes us start wheezing and panting, quite a show. Image of the day: the view of the refuge of Pietra Piana from high above.

Ole!

Already one week on the trail! We're in Corsica's high valleys now, where green alpine pastures with livestock dominate the scenery. This is also where you can get Corsica's famous aromatic cheese directly from the producer. Great addition to the freeze dried stuff we have otherwise! Funny incident today: a young bull wandered into the camping area of the refuge and started molesting people. With the help of a red T-shirt and some courageous hikers we finally got rid of him.

Taking it easy

Today is our 6th day on the trail. We're feeling a bit tired so we decided to take it easy, doing only the 3.5hrs to the next refuge and stopping in between for swimming in the rock pools. Yesterday climbed up to the hole in the top of Tafunatu! Splendid view on swirling cloud masses and jagged peaks around.

Difficult!

The 4th stage turned out to be a tough one. We started a bit late (the red wine!) and we had to race up the mountain to make it before the thunderstorm. Spectacular views in the cirque de la solitude however technical climbing up and down iron chains. Not so easy!

Altitude 1991m

That's where we are right now, just below the peaks of Paglia Orba and Tafunatu (see picture). Short hike today but very difficult. Actually, every day is difficult so far. Imagine hiking Breakneck ten times up and down with a full backpack! Therefore: tomorrow we will take it easy and hang out at the nature pools.

Day 3!

Made it over the Muvrella pass today after climbing 800m up. Beautiful views of the central mountains (see pic of the day)! On the way down to Ascu: some hiker took a bad spill, we took his backpack down. In Ascu: cold beer and steak frites waiting for us!

Mais sur!

We got lucky yesterday. Just when we had the tent set up a huge thunderstorm came up. Oops. Today first time over 2000m. Picture of the day is the view from the first pass today. There is snow!

First day!

Early start today, hit the trail at 7:20. Steep ascent with beautiful views of the coast and the mountains. 300m height still left to climb until we're at the refuge.

Corsica!

Finally arrived! 7a at airport in Bastia, then took the taxi to downtown, followed by a 3hr train ride to Calvi. We hiked on top of the citadel to finally get some training, phew. Very warm here can't wait to get in the mountains!

Tomorrow!

is the big day. Plane leaves 5:20a from Cologne and lands one hour later in Bastia/Corsica. From there we're planning to take the train to Calvi, and arrive at the trailhead in Calenzana early afternoon. Today we bought last provisions, checked gear one last time and thought about what else could go wrong. Watched Blair Witch last night to get into the hiking mood haha. Next update from Corsica!

Duesseldorf Altstadt

recovering from jetlag, meanwhile enjoying German Beer next to Rhine
river!

In Germany

Staying here till Wednesday to visit Paul's family. For once the weather is nicer than in NY!

JFK

Waiting for the plane! Manfred, Jewel forgot to write the weekly!

What is the GR20?

The GR20 is a long distance trail on the island of Corsica. It traverses the island diagonally from north to south and can be hiked within 15 days. We're planning to hike the northern part starting from Calenzana and hopefully making it all the way to Vizzavona. That should be 10 days of hiking straight. Ugh. We'll see how that goes! 

A very good online description can be found here:

http://corsica.forhikers.com/gr20

Can't wait to get there!

First post

Tickets are booked, gear is ready, we're all set to go!